Portland goes Avant-Garde!

Henrik Vibskov, Agust 06, Copenhagen, Photo from Agentur V

Portland Oregon seems to have gone avant-garde, at least judging from the range of experimental fashion carried in the newly opened store Stand up Comedy. True to its name many of the designers carried in the store are ironic and self-reflexive. They range from the New York-based Slow and Steady Wins the Race and Patrik Rzepski to the Danish artist/designer Henrik Vibskov and the Antwerp-based company Pelican Avenue. The focus of the store—conceptual design and the interaction between art and fashion—strengthened by what appears to be a tightly-edited selection of objects makes Stand Up Comedy a great addition to the city!

Feral Childe's Open Studio

Feral Childe, Spring/Summer 2008 "4D 4Ever"

Don’t miss Feral Childe’s Open Studio this weekend. One of the unsung heroes of the New York experimental fashion scene, Moriah Carlson and Alice Wu of Feral Childe have impeccable credentials, having respectively graduated from MFAs at New York Studio School and Yale. Their presentations, silhouettes and prints undoubtedly belie their art backgrounds, as well as allow them to embrace a humorous and defiant approach to fashion. Their last collection—Spring/Summer 2008—took place at the Japanese store Utowa (on Fifth Avenue) and seems to have been staged around a music-pageant-gone-bad theme. Many of the models sported teased-out ’50s hairdos which wouldn’t have looked out of place in a John Waters’ film, and walked one by one onto a platform, where they would put on a numbered pin or a sash. This off-kilter scenario was paired with ingeniously cut clothes which continued their experiment with asymmetrical folds and “kidney-shaped” ruche. What stood out most, however, was their inventive use of fabric, which ranged the gamut from whimsically printed cotton (for the most part created from original prints by the designers) to “snakeskin lamé,” “laminated linen,” and neoprene.

Feral Childe's Annual Open Studio Sat. & Sun, Oct. 20-21, Noon to 6 PM 269 Douglass St #1 between Third & Nevins Brooklyn NY 11217

Sans, Spring/Summer 2008

Sans, SS08, Photograph Sarah Scaturro

Sustainable fashion in New York seems to be finally gaining momentum. One of the more interesting developments is still provided by Sans—the design duo comprised of Lika Volkova and Alessandro de Vito.

Their most recent collection continues an exploration of themes of utilitarian modular clothing paired this time with a clinical (yet at times ironic) aesthetic. A see-through theme is articulated via sheer materials and slashed garments. Particularly interesting was their use of oversized pockets, as well as their precisely tailored pants. What’s impressive about Sans is the fact that they are not only one of a still-small crop (comparatively to Europe) of New York designers working towards sustainable fashion, but they are also among the few to produce experimental design within the city’s rather conservative fashion climate.

Francesca

Angel Chang Spring 2008

Angel Chang, Spring 2008 - 1A

I have mixed feelings about Angel Chang’s Spring 2008 collection. From a technological standpoint, her third attempt to explore “bleeding-edge trends in fashion and technology” was a step back from her first two collections (Spring and Fall 2007).

Her most recent collection showcased shiny fabrics, soft colors, and a nice mix of structured/fluid silhouettes – but little else. Yes, there was the random thermochromic printed textile, as well as some use of innovative fabrics like X-static (with anti-microbial characteristics), but it appeared that Chang’s investigation into technological fashion stopped there. I was disappointed that one of the few emerging designers out there willing to tackle the question of how to make technological clothes actually fashionable was, in a sense, veering away from the very quality that made her so unique. Her designs, while not especially significant, are the kinds of garments that an urban woman would like to wear – functional, utilitarian, and pretty. A 2007 Ecco Domani Fashion Foundation winner, Chang from the get-go had credibility in the fashion world, thanks to her previous work at Donna Karan and other fashion houses and magazines. Because she herself does not construct technological components, nor develop the cutting edge techniques she employs in her designs (unlike the designer Despina Papadopolous of Studio 5050 who can both engineer circuits and design the end-use garment), Chang must rely on partnerships with technological designers, such as Sonali Sridhar and Mouna Andraos, the pair behind her thermochromic textiles. Perhaps Chang has finally realized that, although there MUST be more to technological fashion than Ipod docks, blinking lights, and disappearing inks - it’s pretty hard to figure out what else is out there, and even harder to find someone who can replicate it. Even though I was disappointed with Chang’s halted explorations into technological fashion, I was satisfied to see that Chang is still exploring militaristic themes. Her continued use of patterns with guns, camouflage, airplanes, etc speaks to the larger philosophical issue of the role technology plays in society, especially with regards to warfare. Overall, I think that Angel Chang’s work is commendable for its effort and scope. Perhaps it’s unfair to expect technological advancement with every fashion season.  Although, shouldn’t fashion -  especially "fast" fashion -  be able to keep up with the rapid change that is occurring every day within the technology industry? Angel Chang, Spring 2008 - 2A

Sarah Scaturro

Mary Ping, Spring/Summer 2008

Mary Ping’s Spring/Summer 2008 collection was quietly beautiful and suggests that the short decampment to Paris was beneficial to the designer. Slightly more feminine than her previous work, it showed a number of dresses and circle skirts which conveyed an easy yet researched chic. (Particularly ingenious design-wise were her dual color dresses.)

Yet her conceptual side, which she indulges in with her Slow and Steady Line, was still present, particularly in the details. A beautiful interlaced back and a strategically-placed cut-out explored new erogenous zones, such as the collarbones or the lower ribcage, engaging the viewer in a game of hide and seek, which, combined with a certain primness (underscored by the über-nerdy Sol Moscot eyeglasses), brings forth a more cerebral kind of feminine beauty. Her work conveys a sensuality which is carefully articulated and perhaps even slightly repressed and thus all the more intriguing. Ultimately, it constitutes a respite from the overly trendy and/or overtly sexy clothes out there.

Francesca